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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.